Something Old, Something New: A Transformed Historic Space Becomes A Centerpiece For A Family’s Restaurant Dreams – And A Vibrant New Hangout For Locals And Visitors Alike.
By Cara McDonald / Photos by Carter Photographics

Against the night sky in Granby, the square facade of an 82-year-old brick building sits in silhouette. Wafts of grill-smoke rise and cut the cold air, and the old display windows reveal a new scene: along their length runs a bar with stools for gathering, and people huddling over glasses of wine laughing, talking.

The old brick structure is now home to a new eatery called Brickhouse 40 – a welcome addition to the town, and yet another incarnation of the landmark building built in 1927. In the heart of a ranching town, surrounded by millions of acres of Colorado fir and pine, the old building stands proud as Granby’s first brick structure. It served as a general store, then a grocery store, and lately, under the McConathy family’s ownership, an upscale home design center, Country Home Outfitters and New Mountain Designs.

These days the design center still shares half the structure, but the other half has undergone a transformation at the hands of Chef Dino Kaplanis and his wife, Amy. Dino, who has a long and varied culinary career, moved up to Granby from Denver with his family with the hopes of opening a place of his own. “I’ve always thought there was a demand here, but not enough supply. It was just about finding the right place. My main objective was to find something new and fresh, not somewhere that had been operating as an existing restaurant. The right space was key.”

“I never expected it. People come in and they’re having a cocktail in front of the fire before they sit down for dinner.” — Chef Dino Kaplanis

That space was waiting at the design center, which happened to be owned by family. Amy’s a member of the McConathy clan, and with the in-laws willing to reimagine the space, the Kaplanises’ culinary dreams were close to realization.

But to start, the bones of the old building had to be worked around. “We began with the post-and-beam supports and worked backwards,” Dino says. The posts in the middle of the long, narrow space framed the new open kitchen, which was built out and finished with corrugated metal accents. The rest of the long, narrow space was designed around it.

It was the features of the existing design center, however, that helped Dino complete the design. With the aid of architect Scott Munn, plans quickly took shape by working around the elements of the old showroom. A conference room was turned into a private banquet area. The fireplace display became a lounge, flanked by two club chairs. The counter that used to hold the cash register was transformed with some additional granite tops to a bar. A full display kitchen with cabinetry and a granite bar-height island was left intact, and slated to be used for informal cooking classes in the future.

The new kitchen was created in the tile display area, taking advantage of the abundance of tiling on the walls and floors. “We have the nicest dishroom in the county,” Dino jokes. “It has slate tile everywhere.”

With the addition of some serious plumbing work and new walk-in coolers, the restaurant was ready for finishing touches, which Dino credits to his wife, Amy. Her design sensibility can be felt throughout the restaurant, in the rich chocolate stucco walls, the frosted candle sconces, and the sleek serving pieces and barware. The interior has a rustic contemporary flair, owing warmth to the wood beams, exposed brick wall, and flickering candlelight. It has an ambience not readily found in Grand County – and that’s created some unexpected business perks.

At the start of mud season, on a Tuesday night, the tables fill steadily, and by 7 p.m. there’s not an empty seat. Dino admits he’s surprised and more than a little grateful to his staff and the clientele that had them hopping with a surge of business since opening in February. It’s a place where dinner feels special (not to mention lunch and Sunday brunch). And that extends beyond the fine dining set. “More and more we’re seeing a bar crowd here,” Dino says. “I never expected it. People come in and they’re having a cocktail in front of the fire before they sit down for dinner.” That kind of hanging out suits the chef just fine. “We built it for the locals; that was the idea to give them good prices, good food, good portions.”

The menu could be described as Dino’s Greatest Hits – pulling from his Greek heritage, his restaurant stints in California, and his catering experience. In some ways it’s a bit of a disconnect from the sleek space – call it Mediterranean comfort food meets family recipes meets mountain grill – but it’s varied enough to cater to a mix of palates. You’ll find Mediterraneaninspired chicken, seafood, pasta, and steak dishes, with a nice mix of small plates, such as crab cakes and sliders. Dinner entrees fall in the $13.95 to $28.95 range, including grill items like the signature pork chop. Lunch menu items average around $10. Reservations are recommended for dinner but not required.

Above all, expect to be treated to a sense of dinner as occasion – and expect to want to push back your chair, have just one more glass of wine, and stay awhile.

BRICKHOUSE 40 CONFIDENTIAL -
Sure, he thinks the whole menu is pretty great, but Chef Dino Kaplanis recommends this plan for a perfect evening if your taste runs toward Greek food (a specialty):

To Drink: “Ouzo always flows freely here.”

To Start: “The feta bread is a family favorite.”

Main Course:“Try the Chicken Reganati, a roasted chicken with an olive, garlic, pepperoncini, and basil tapenade with feta on top and baked.

Sweet Ending: “Finish the night with Loukoumades – they’re basically Greek doughnut holes served with a honey, clove and cinnamon syrup simmered with orange and lemon slices.”

READ MORE STORIES FROM THIS ISSUE:
• To Tabernash, With Love: The Tabernash Tavern
• A Rebirth on the River: Riverside Hotel
• Special Lifestyle Section
• 2009 Feature Articles